Fish Tales From Grand Central

By Patricia Canole

There is no place better to welcome travelers and commuters to the Big Apple than the gorgeous Beaux-Arts complex known as Grand Central Terminal. For the past century, the 44 platforms (the most of any train station in the world) have kept New Yorkers and visitors rolling in and out of Manhattan, with an estimated 750,000 commuters walking through its storied halls each weekday. Take a few minutes to glimpse this architectural wonder. While much of the 70-acre building seems like a throwback, it was considered a technological accomplishment when it opened 103 years ago as the first ever all-electric structure in New York. As you walk along the main concourse, stand near the iconic Terminal Clock and gaze up at the cathedral-like ceiling and admire the constellations.

There’s much more to appreciate at Grand Central than clocks and stars! Deep in the belly of this station is the Oyster Bar—New York’s seafood destination since 1913 (it opened the same year as Grand Central Terminal). Here is the place to experience the pleasure of fresh, unadorned seafood, such as lobster with drawn butter, grilled herring in season and, of course, oysters.

The Oyster Bar was originally designed by Rafael Guastavino and was then as it is now, grand and magnificent, accented with arched vaulted ceilings covered in terracotta tiles. Because of the look of the space and the glamorous nature of the terminal, it didn’t take too long before the Oyster Bar soon became the most popular lunchtime eatery in New York City, serving all varieties of raw oysters and clams and became famous for their oyster pan roasts and fish stews.

As the years passed, the Oyster Bar remained the place to be seen for travelers and Midtown workers, but eventually, the terminal and all that went with it fell into decline. By the 1950’s long-distance took a back seat to air travel, and plans eventually arose to destroy the terminal and turn it into an office building. Decades later, with demolition looming in the ‘70s, the terminal was saved by activists—led by Jackie Kennedy Onassis—who succeeded in getting the station declared a National Historic Landmark in 1975.

Throughout the good times and bad ones, too, the Oyster Bar has withstood the test of time. Today, the kitchen is led by Sandy Ingber, who began as a fish buyer and promoted to executive chef in 1996. During this period, Ingber says there was an increased interest in the oyster. “Suddenly we went from 8-to-10 varieties to 30 almost overnight!” Ingber says. Meanwhile, when he began his tenure as executive chef, he made many menu changes scaling down the expensive items and halting their weekly fish and vegetables from overseas. “It was wonderful to have them but very costly.” He started adding new specials and struck gold with the lobster roll, still a bestseller. Ingber is still the number one fish purchaser and goes to Hunts Point every morning at 3 AM to select the freshest seafood from around the world. His keen eye and expertise have garnered him the reputation for getting the first catch of the season—from wild salmon to soft shell crabs. “Our loyal guests look forward to having seasonal seafood specialties as soon as they are available,” says Ingber. “Our seafood lovers want them at any cost, and I know I can get them what they want.”

Step into the Oyster Bar today and incredible aromas of cream, spices, butter and seafood entice diners. The Oyster Bar offers a vast selection of the freshest and most seasonal seafood available, including 20-to-30 varieties of oysters daily. Other specialties include made-to-order seafood chowders, stews and pan roasts, and exquisite house-smoked salmon, trout, and sturgeon. Try one of the timeless classics like Arctic Char Filet with Red and Black Caviar and Beurre Blanc. You won’t be disappointed. Another crowd pleaser is the Cajun Grilled Louisiana Catfish with Bourbon Pecan Butter and Blue Corn Bread. If you’re dining solo step up to the lunch counter and opt for a Whole Maine Lobster Roll with Cayenne Mayonnaise.

Beyond the lunch counters can be found The Saloon where you’ll find Alex Dimitropoulos at the helm. Going from the equivalent of the second lieutenant in Greece to bartender at the Oyster Bar is an unlikely career path. Although he’s commanded his station at The Saloon with military precision for the past 38 years, Dimitropoulos displays a rather non-military character as he doles out advice and friendship to an ever-growing client list. “I always tell people to try to be happy,” he says. “Do everything in moderation.”

Quite a change from his earlier life. After serving in the Greek military, he knew he wanted more. He came to America and his relationship with Oyster Bar soon began; the first 15 years was employed as a waiter and substitute bartender. Eventually, he was offered a full-time bartending spot in the bustling Saloon. He’s been a fixture there ever since. Dimitropoulos has become so well-known, that out-of-town customers greet him by name as they settle in for a drink and sampling of oysters.

Dimitropoulos has his memories: Hollywood’s elite including Robert DeNiro and Martin Scorsese have passed his way for a plate of Orient Points, Blue Points, or other raw selections. He favors sweet over savory oysters and makes sure his customers enjoy them with cocktail sauce and a dash of lemon. “I just love oysters,” he says.

Certainly, Dimitropoulos may have been the second lieutenant in the Greek Army, but ask anyone who frequents The Saloon at Oyster Bar. He’s the major general of this iconic restaurant. And that isn’t about to change anytime soon. For more information on the Oyster Bar, visit oysterbarny.com.

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