Dining In Portugal…Across The Hudson

By Jon Haggins
Photos by Bo Zaunders

Ethnic food is a delight, especially when it is enjoyed in an atmosphere the reeks of the particular country. Chinese food in Manhattan’s Chinatown tastes better than somewhere in Midtown. What can compare with Italian food in, well, Little Italy?

One of the biggest Portuguese communities lies, literally just a few minutes west of Manhattan, across the Hudson River in Newark. The Portuguese populate an interesting section called “The Ironbound that is just east of the city’s Penn Station.

The gangster comedy movie “Wise Guys,” starring Joe Piscopo and Danny DeVito, as a pair of would-be Mafioso, was filmed there. The throw-back look of the Ironbound was a perfect setting for the movie.

Today the area has not changed much physically and the Ironbound still is home to more great Portuguese restaurants than you could count. Some are off the beaten path and little known outside the community. But those that draw “outsiders” to dine, never fail to impress with both ambiance and terrific ethnic food.

The Ironbound is so named because the rail tracks that serve Penn Station circle the area creating a section that is “ironbound.” Newark is on the upswing with a beautiful entertainment complex in the New Jersey Performing Arts Center (NJPAC) and many theatergoers find their way the short distance to the Ironbound. This area also happens to be arguably the safest section in Newark.

So, where to find great Portuguese food?

Adega Grill serves the best Portuguese Cuisine on the other side of the Hudson. The Path Train stops at Newark’s Penn Station and a simple five-block walk down Ferry Street brings you to Adega Grill. It’s an amazing restaurant in the Ironbound Section.

A bit more history here-Ferry Street once led to a ferry that crossed the Hudson to Manhattan. The ferry is long since gone, but the name hangs on.

Adega extends into two buildings and is comprised of four divisions; a popular bar, two beautiful dining areas and a large music filled lounge where everyone gathers. The accommodating staff is universal, from South America and Portugal.

Marcos Aliveira, the manager told me, “Adega means wine cellar, a room where carefully selected grapes are transformed into the magic that is wine. In Portugal the Adega is about tradition and hospitality, it’s a place where family and friends gather to experience the pleasure of the wine and share tales of life. We, at the Adega Grill, are here to share with you the experience of tradition, hospitality and the magic of Portugal.”

The restaurant is most notable for fresh seafood such as the seafood festival, a large platter of whole lobster, two lobster tails of four ounces each, king crab legs, mussels, clams, shrimp, stuffed mushrooms, seafood sauce on the side and sautéed broccoli-rabe.

Chef Leys Filipe Silva really has a handle on his preparation. This is my fourth visit and each time I discover the wonders of his kitchen. The best thing about the food is its quality.

We started with several terrific dishes such as: a plate of shrimp sautéed with garlic and olive oil ($14.75), The Spanish sausage was thinly sliced with shrimp and mushrooms in a brown sauce, sautéed with garlic ($15.50).

The restaurant also serves several meat selections, such as the best New Zealand lamb chops on the western side of the Hudson. They are seasoned in a marinade and gently grilled, then served with oven roasted potatoes and steamed arugula. That lamb chops melted in my mouth and left me begging for more, more, and more ($29.95). The broiled 10 oz. filet mignon that’s finished in a brandy flambé with mushrooms, was served with crisp Spanish style potatoes and sautéed vegetables ($33.95).

The colorful mixed salad was filled with field greens, nuts, dried cranberries, gorgonzola cheese, sliced apples and seared tuna with a house dressing ($12.00). Let’s not forget the grilled red snapper filet that is served with scallops, shrimp and fresh vegetables ($25.75). The sliced calamari was lightly battered and served with a red tomato sauce ($14.25). The octopus dish was tender and melted in my mouth. Our dinner was complimented with a bottle of a very nice Syra/Cabernet 2014 wine.

We shared three traditional desserts, flan, turtle cheesecake, and Portuguese Marie cookies dipped in espresso and a heavy crème. What could be more wonderful than that to top off a fantastic dining experience? Adgea is where you come for the best Portuguese Cuisine on that side of the Hudson.

Adega Grill
130-132 Ferry Street
Newark, NJ 07105
(973) 589-8830
adegagrill.com