By Patricia Canole
TBar Steak & Lounge on the Upper East Side is the place where New Yorkers enjoy a delicious menu of fine food—to the hilt. You’ll find it includes everything from burgers with an equal number of steaks and chops, appetizers, salads, pasta, and a good pizza Margherita to share.
TBar’s smart-looking dining room with banquettes, soft overhead lighting, and crisp tablecloths is easily one of the most elegant restaurants in a neighborhood—serving everything from burgers with an equal number of steaks and chops, appetizers, salads, pasta, and a good pizza Margherita for the table to share. The menu, under its first and only chef, Ben Zwicker, can easily be characterized as Modern American/Contemporary. Located in the 70s, it draws a crowd looking for something unique from the slew of cookie-cutter restaurants in the nabe otherwise in the mood for the slim pickings in the area. Zwicker, who spent time in notable kitchens including Four Seasons and Aureole provides consistency to a clientele that expects their favorite items on the menu to be the same every time they order them.
The menu, under its first and only chef, Ben Zwicker, can easily be characterized as Modern American/Contemporary. Located in the 70s, it draws a crowd looking for something unique from the slew of cookie-cutter restaurants in the nabe otherwise in the mood for the slim pickings in the area. Zwicker, who spent time in notable kitchens including Four Seasons and Aureole provides consistency to a clientele that expects their favorite items on the menu to be the same every time they order them.
A SOLID MENU
Clearly, the restaurant’s popularity has as much to do with its affable owner, Tony Fortuna, as its solid menu. He is old school in his demeanor and professionalism, while on the other hand, he is sensitive to changing tastes and times without ever becoming trendy. The solid menu at TBar wins points for innovation, while it still follows the proven formula of any NYC steakhouse. Top-quality beef is perfectly done and presented. Porterhouse is always exquisitely juicy. The ribeye is even juicier, and no doubt, you’ll probably take a good deal of it home for a midnight raid on the fridge.
If impeccable seafood should define a sushi restaurant, so should TBar serving outstanding Crispy Sushi, with top marks for quality and preparation. While not being a huge sushi fan, I could have easily ordered more. With other options including oysters, octopus, and shrimp, its Yellowfin Tartare with soy, ginger, and sesame seeds is a standout.
Taking a tasting flight with Tenuta del Meriggio gives a Campania wine novice a delightful journey into those grapes and the resulting wines. Their 2019 Fiano di Avellino DOCG is exquisite, an award-winning dry white wine made in stainless-steel tanks. An easy-drinking wine with beautiful structure, crisp minerality, and notes of peach, tropical fruits, and almonds is a perfect example of Fiano di Avellino, which many believe to be the best white wine created in Italy.
For entrees, my companion went with the Crispy Long Island Duck with Sweet Potato and Orange Glaze. TBar’s version may remind you how wonderful roast duck with orange sauce can be. The sauce was not too sweet, the meat perfectly juicy.
I opted for The Irish Salmon, just as amazing, with melt-in-your-mouth cooked perfection and served with Zucchini and Honey Mustard Sauce. Freshly cut fries were terrific, as were the nicely seared and roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon.
The desserts at TBar are sweet wonders, not least a Strawberry Sundae with shortcake, meringue, brandy, and cream. Or perhaps for a gooey sensation, opt for the Flourless Chocolate Sundae with brownie, cream, and plenty of chocolate sauce.
Tony Fortuna must be happy for having a satisfied clientele, but he’s happier still when a new face comes to TBar to be indulged and well-fed in a room where people can enjoy each other’s company.
For more information on TBar Steak & Lounge, visit tbarnyc.com.
At press time, it was determined by New York State to ban indoor dining. Restaurants, however, will continue outdoor dining, take-out, and delivery. We ask our readers to support their local restaurants and advise them to check websites for the latest updated information on their favorite dining establishments.