THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME

Permanent Makeup For Expressive Eyes

By Patricia Canole

Over the past few years or so, microblading has become the Number 1 solution for beefing up overplucked, sparse, or nonexistent brows. To get technical, a makeup artist proceeds to make small hair-like incisions in the skin, and the pigment is deposited into each one. Because the ink doesn’t go as deeply into the skin as body art, microblading will fade over time.

We met with premier permanent makeup artist, Delphine Breyne of Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa, New York. The French-born artist is passionate about beauty. Her years of experience in the fashion/beauty industries undoubtedly shaped her future career.

“I have always been interested in beautiful eyebrows and started with myself. I researched many different methods to achieve beautiful, natural-looking eyebrows.” Delphine soon realized permanent makeup, otherwise known as microblading, presented the ideal solution. “​After I had my eyebrows done successfully, I fell in love with the techniques and results of permanent makeup, and so I decided to learn from some of the best around the world. I call this Eyebrow Couture, offering the client an individualized natural look.

What exactly is permanent makeup, and why is it so important now in the pandemic-masked age?
Permanent Makeup (PMU) is a term that can also mean semi-permanent makeup, cosmetic tattooing, or micro-pigmentation. It is a technique that improves the appearance of a particular feature with a natural look, when done correctly, with the help of a super-fine pen that deposits pigment into the skin.

Today, more than ever, microblading is essential because we are all wearing masks that show only our eyes and eyebrows, which frame our faces and accentuate the eyebrow hair.

Is permanent makeup like tattooing?
Technically speaking, PMU is considered a form of tattoo because artists are dropping pigment under a client’s skin. However, one of the critical differences is that PMU is performed in a lighter way on the surface, under the first layer versus the traditional, more profound tattoo artist’s techniques. The PMU result is a natural, softer result which needs to be refreshed every year on average.

Tell us about the benefits to microblading.
The microblade strokes I create look identical to natural eyebrow hair and blend in beautifully with the natural hair creating a much thicker, softer look. Your eyebrows will look more even, more symmetrical, and fuller.

Is there any discomfort associated with a PMU procedure?With a typical treatment it will last no more than two hours. I like to take my time and focus on the tiniest details to ensure smiles from clients for years to come. Similarly, I take extra time to ensure that each client understands the aftercare instructions because we are a team. Together, we will achieve the desired result within the range of possibilities. With each client, I begin with a consultation to understand the needs and share how my style can or can’t suit their expectations. There is little discomfort. I apply numbing cream before and during the procedure.

How long will the permanent makeup last?
The average microblading lasts ten months to one year, and that time frame is dependent on several factors: skin type, skincare, and lifestyle.

I remind clients about the importance of wearing SPF to protect their skin and protect the color of their microblading, which will last longer with SPF.

If I’m also considering a Botox/chemical peel/laser procedure, should I have it before or after the PMU treatment?
If you underwent Botox, you must wait a minimum of two weeks before doing any microblading treatments. Also, it would be best if you avoided chemical peels at least four weeks before your microblading appointment. Generally, all skincare treatments should be done four weeks before or four weeks after your microblading meeting. And as a rule, no laser on your eyebrows.

For more information on Delphine and the permanent makeup, visit her at julienfarel.com