There’s no question New York City is considered the Italian restaurant capital for regional cuisines boasting menus from Sicily to Tuscany and all points in between. Of course, this is wonderful until you receive a chilly look from the wait staff if you ask for anything additional to the order. It inevitably happens, which is why restaurateur Diego Argudo created Il Gradino with the idea of a piacere, which translates as “to your pleasure.” Argudo recalls one night, a diner could not decide whether to order Bolognese or Pesto. That’s when he suggested, “We’ll do a combination for you.” The result: a very delighted customer.
After more than two decades at Midtown East’s venerable Scalinatella as head captain, Diego Argudo opened his first venture, ll Gradino Ristorante (meaning “the step” referring to its below-street level). It is a long-held dream come true for the Ecuadorian native, who started his restaurant career at age 15 as a water boy when he arrived in New York City to join his father—a chef. He worked, learned, and decades later can say, “This is the restaurant I’ve always wanted.” It’s his dream come true.
BUON APPETITO
At ll Gradino, Argudo presents a menu of time-honored Italian classics for lunch and dinner, including options for risotto, calamari, veal medallions, Dover sole, lobster, and chicken. Diners are invited to ask for their favorite version of each dish for the kitchen to prepare to their specifications. Argudo’s hospitable policy for Il Gradino extends far beyond the six or so designated menu items. If a guest has a yearning for an Italian dish not on the menu or among a lengthy list of daily specials, all they need do is describe it, and the chef will accommodate the request. Argudo explains that for him, it’s all about pleasing guests’ palates, not catering to the chef’s ego. “If somebody wants risotto with sausage, for example, we’ll do it for them,” Argudo says. “We want to make people comfortable.”
ENDLESS CHOICES
The chef is Carlos Inga in his first executive chef role, having logged eight years as a sous chef at San Pietro and Il Molino; he is also a veteran of Caravaggio. The chef has an eye for the subtle lavish ingredients, which he folds into relatively simple dishes to give them a little extra kick. Inga has curated a selection of antipasti, salads, pasta (house-made), veal dishes, chicken-based plates, and fish offerings.
Antipasti can be simple, like the Cozze e Vongole Posillipo, clams, and mussels in classic marinara sauce, or Calamari a Piacera, calamari prepared according to your preference.
Of course, the entrees shine brightest, and every one of the five we tasted was a paragon of form and flavor, Raviolini Il Gradino, house-made ravioli stuffed with burrata, eggplant, zucchini cherry tomato saucy, basil; Vitello Milanese o alla Griglia, house butchered veal cutlets from the rack prepared in classic breaded Milanese style or as a grilled paillard crowned by arugula tossed with cherry; Petto Pollo Voldostana, chicken breast topped with prosciutto, Fontina and asparagus in brown sauce; Poussin Il Griglia, herb-marinated whole baby chicken, grilled; and Branzino al Sale, roasted sea salt encrusted Branzino.
SIMPLY DELICIOUS
Desserts are increasingly being upgraded in Italian restaurants. Here, the offerings are simple and delicious. Look for cheesecake, gelati and sorbetti—and even a cannoli for good measure. For imbibing, Argudo offers top shelf spirits, and fine wines from California and Italy. Cocktails are incredibly creative and the night we visited, the Belleni was being served and savored by guests.
Il Gradino embraces a refined modern aesthetic with a warm, welcoming ambiance. Vintage photos are displayed on one wall, white, black, and grey marble-grained mirror panels define another. The setting exudes a polished, subtle sophistication in which relaxed comfort rules.
The real reason to visit Il Gradino is for the homemade pasta. For this New Yorker who loves everything Italian, dining here will remind you of those excellent meals you had on your last trip to Italy. I know I’ll be back for a taste of the enticing menu of Italian classics. Adoro Il Gradino!
For more information on Il Gradino, visit ilgradino.com