THE MAGIC OF IRELAND
RUINS, CASTLES & ADVENTURES
With its lush green countryside, charming villages, and quaint B&Bs, the Emerald Isle is an idyllic getaway that blends history with rugged outdoor pursuits. Ireland’s small size tempts visitors to try to see the entire country in a single trip. The distances look short on a map, and the miles seem modest, but do not be deceived. Trying to get from Killarney to Galway between lunch and dinner means rushing through Counties Limerick and Clare and missing the essence of Ireland. Here is my sampling of the experiences of visiting Ireland with pure magic.
LIVE LIKE ROYALTY
ASHFORD CASTLE
County Mayo
This gorgeous hotel embodies the fantasy of an Irish castle featuring a historic stone facade, complete with towers; gorgeous, manicured grounds; a stunning setting on a vast lake; and shared spaces that are truly grand, with rich wood paneling, chandeliers, and antique furniture. Ashford Castle, once the home of the Guinness clan, became a local hotel in 1939 and has since been refurbished to make each guest feel like royalty. There is plenty to do outdoors: fishing, boating, falconry lessons, golf, clay shooting, and archery.
Info: ashfordcastle.com
BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE
County Galway
This castle set against the gorgeous backdrop of Connemara’s mountains has been home to some of the most infamous figures of Irish history, among them the Ferocious O’Flaherty Clan. The grounds provide an ideal walking area; the evening could be curled up before an open fire.
Info: ballynahinch-castle.com
GLENARM CASTLE
County Antrim
Since 1636, Glenarm Castle has been an essential center along the scenic Causeway Coastal Route in Northern Ireland. Relax in the decorated lounge while viewing portraits from the early 17th century. Imagine strolling through the walled garden and ending the day with a restful sleep in a four-poster bed dating from 1754. Info: glenarmcastle.com
FOOD FESTS
GALWAY INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL
County Galway
A must-do festival is The Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival. The annual four-day event is held on the last weekend of September in the center of Galway City. You can expect to experience various tantalizing events during this famous food festival, from seafood trails to other culinary delights. Oyster shucking championships top the list, along with food tastings in some of Galway’s finest restaurants. Do not forget the music, cooking demonstration, and the Hot Oyster Awards cooking challenge! Info: galwayoysterfestival.com
THE KINSALE GOURMET FESTIVAL
County Cork
This 18th-century town just a few miles south of Cork City is like one huge restaurant. It is the best place for a food lover to be almost any time, especially during the Kinsale Gourmet Festival, when the pub crawling is fast and furious every October. Sitting on a dock with a Guinness in one hand and a fistful of oysters in the other is one way to go, but all manner of seafood also appears on the menus of fine restaurants. Info: tastecork. ie/food-producers/kinsale-gourmet-festival
WALKING ADVENTURES
THE BURREN
County Clare
Almost any walker will tell you that the footpaths of a country—not its roadways—show off the landscape to the best advantage. One shining example is The Burren. Here, mile upon mile of all-but-bare rock is almost otherworldly. But there is magnificence here, nonetheless. Distances are short, views across Galway Bay to Connemara and the Aran Islands are genuinely inspiring, and in May, cracks that seam the limestone sprout a stunning collection of a rare flowering plant.
Info: burrenationalpark.ie
CLIFFS OF MOHER
County Clare
Sheltered from the Atlantic winds, blossoms transform the landscape. The mighty Cliffs of Moher, a few miles to the south, offer a cliff-top walk, and the most extensive cave system in Ireland lies beneath. Both The Burren and Cliffs of Moher are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Info: cliffsofmoher.ie
HERITAGE GEMS
BRÚ NA `BÓINNE
County Meath
Historic sites are around every corner in a country as ancient and storied as Ireland. One of the most important is Brú na `Bóinne, which means the ‘palace’ of the Boyne; it refers to the area which is in proximity to the River Boyne and contains one of the world’s most important prehistoric landscapes and is located close to the east coast of Ireland. The three well-known large passage tombs dominate the archaeological landscape within Brú na Bóinne, Knowth, Newgrange, and Dowth, built 5,000 years ago in the Neolithic or Late Stone Age. Immensely popular year-round, The Brú na Bóinne tombs, particularly Knowth, is the largest assemblage of megalithic art in Western Europe.
Info: newgrange.com/visitor
CLONMACNOISE
County Offaly
Once a great center of monastic learning, Clonmacnoise boasts impressive crosses and round towers, the ruins of a cathedral and churches, plus the extensive collection of Early Christian grave slabs in Western Europe. Info: visitoffaly.ie
ROCK OF CASHEL
County Tipperary
Ireland’s scenery is breathtaking and beyond compare. West Cork, Dingle, the Ring of Kerry, and the West—the list of Instagram-worthy sights is endless. One place not to be missed is the Rock of Cashel (also known as St. Patrick’s Rock) in County Tipperary. Dating from the 12th century, this fortress boasts a round tower, cathedral, and chapel bearing priceless Celtic art and medieval architecture. Info: cashel.ie
Ireland’s islands are worlds unto themselves—and none more and so than the natural wonders that are the Skelligs. Located off the coast of County Kerry, two islands rise out of the Atlantic Ocean–ruggedly beautiful with centuries of history melted into their very rock. These are the Skelligs—Skellig Michael and Little Skellig.
Skellig Michael, today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was chosen by 6th century monks as a monastery. The stone-built beehive homes can be reached by climbing six hundred steps and a wonder to behold.
As part of an island-hopping adventure or a stop along the Wild Atlantic Way touring route, visiting the Skelligs is a chance to experience something truly magical. Info: skelligexperience.com
IRELAND’S FAIR CITY
County Dublin
If you are a city dweller, you will love Dublin and its hustle and bustle environment. Hotels surround the main pedestrian thoroughfare, Grafton Street, where you will find shopping galore and the best people-watching in Ireland. If there is a football (soccer) match, note that Grafton Street is where the revelers will come should Ireland win big. Trinity College is open for tours at one end of Grafton Street, and you can see the famous Book of Kells. Many cathedrals are also open for tours, including St. Patrick’s. If you are not sure what to see first, take a quick bus tour of the city—you will notice it is easy to navigate, and you will be sure to discover something interesting.
No visit to Ireland is complete without raising a pint (or two) to its people’s favorite brew—head to The Guinness Storehouse and St. James Gate Brewery in Dublin. The facility gives a behind-the-scenes look: Witness the brewing process, get firsthand experience pulling pints, and sample the final product. Enjoy the brew with traditional Irish meals in one of four on-site eateries. Also, on the River Liffey, visit the Temple Bar area off Dame Street. In the middle of Dublin, you will meet a global crowd from dozens of countries over drinks and dinner, and you are sure to leave the Emerald Isle, having made a few new friends. Info: guinness-storehouse.com
Once Ireland shakes off winter, it blossoms into forty shades of green. Here are seven suggestions to do on your visit.
CONNECTING WITH THE WILD Pretty fields crisscrossed with soft valleys and heather-clad hills with sweeping views; you will find them all in the Sperrin Mountains. Despite being one of Ireland’s largest upland areas (it stretches from Strabane in County Tyrone to the shores of Lough Neagh in the East), this mountain range is an undiscovered gem—wild and untouched. Connect with nature and enjoy views on horseback as you explore ancient wonders.
EXPLORE BELFAST Get an early start to the place many consider the best. Belfast’s bars, restaurants, and venues coupled with the timeless beauty of the Causeway Coast, will unquestionably put spring in your step.
ST. PATRICK’S DAY IN DUBLIN As always, March 17th is a spectacular event in Ireland. The national holiday brings with it the biggest and best celebration in Dublin. The streets and pubs will be buzzing for days before—and after.
CYCLE THE BACKROADS Take in the sights, smells, and tastes on two wheels. The experience will get you tracing the ancient routes of settlers by bike and visiting fascinating archaeological sites and local food producers before concluding with an organic lunch at one of many pubs.
DRIVE THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY This truly remarkable drive does have it all: views, culture, food, and unique experiences. Lose yourself in its spring-tide beauty, have secret beaches, admire towering cliffs, ancient stone architecture, and much more.
TIME TO TEE UP Now it is time to bring out the clubs and tee up somewhere on one of many extraordinary courses along Ireland’s coastline. Follow in the footsteps of golfing legends on courses with sea views, towering dunes, and twisting terrain.
