Chinese food in America has never had a fair chance. It’s been relegated to conjure up the household names of General Tso’s and Orange Chicken, both of which are good—but so far from the truth of what Chinese cuisine can be. However, in a one-of-a-kind city like New York, you can be sure to find a few select gems that have great taste and are authentic. Chef-owner Kenny Leung’s new endeavor with Thomas Tang of the acclaimed August Gatherings is looking to be one such place.
Located in the FiDi District on Pearl Street, YAO is an expansive space meticulously designed to display Chinese culture and showcase beloved modern Cantonese dishes. With a cozy and welcoming ambiance, the restaurant invites guests to immerse themselves in a culinary journey that pays homage to the rich tapestry of Cantonese cuisine. The sleek, minimalist lines are softened by warm and decorative creating an inviting and sophisticated atmosphere. The dining room is intimate yet spacious, ensuring a private and comfortable dining experience.
A CHEF’S DREAM
Chef Kenny’s journey began at the tender age of 15 when he immersed himself in a government culinary program in China, delving deep into the artistry of Cantonese cuisine. His formative years were spent honing fundamental skills, complemented by an apprenticeship at Canton Culinary School.
In 1988, he moved to New York City, venturing into the bustling culinary landscape, and further enhancing his culinary repertoire. In 2015, he co-founded August Gatherings with Thomas Tang, who has been immersed in hospitality since childhood. He grew up as the son of one of China’s top chefs who catered for regal events. He met Chef Kenny while working together in the original location of August Gatherings. The two became fast friends and decided to join forces to purchase the Canal Street location of August Gatherings and have been partners ever since.
Now, with the recent opening of YAO, Chef Kenny and his team of 20 cooks strive to create a canvas that highlights the past, present and future of Cantonese cuisine and offers diners an a la carte menu and a seven-course tasting menu named Jia Yan, a Chinese word loosely translated to “a celebratory family gathering.”
A SUPERB MENU
YAO’s menu is a masterful fusion of traditional Chinese flavors and modern culinary techniques, highlighting the chef’s creativity and skill. The dishes are meticulously crafted, carefully considering each element, and beautifully presented.
We opted to try the Jin Yan Tasting Menu, which is nothing short of a feast for the eyes—and appetite. Some of the highlights included Deep deep-fried Hokkaido Scallops followed by Shikoku Bamboo Shrimp Dumpling, which is a complex play on the traditional Chinese dumpling; it is made by combining charcoal and bamboo from Japan, grounded for two weeks to produce a black color of shell. The filling is made with shrimp, then shelled and hand-minced to create texture through aeration. It is finished with a shaved black truffle and served in beautiful pottery from Spain.
The banquet continues with Gold Leaf Wrapped Fried Abalone, sustainably sourced wild abalone from South Africa, which is deep fried, sitting atop a crispy wonton skin with house made sauce encased in edible gold leaf. One of the main stars of the progression is the Alaskan King Crab Wensi Tofu Soup, in which Chef Kenny uses immaculate knife skills to create razor-thin slices of tofu, taking hours of preparation. The meat from the crab is then pulled from the shell, hand-cut into large chunks, and added to the soup.
Grilled Angus Short Ribs, tenderized with kiwi, drizzled tableside in a pear and oyster sauce. The next course follows with Snow Pea Shoots in Chicken Broth. The final course is Longevity Noodles with Wild Octopus that is slow cooked for six hours; it is then laid on a bed of Hong Kong-style noodles, with chanterelle mushrooms infused with a special sauce.
THE PERFECT ENDING
The meal concludes with a seasonal signature dessert: the deep-fried mochi Sesame Ball filled with red bean paste. Served alongside a homemade seasonal fuji apple sorbet, it offers a delightful contrast in flavors and temperatures.
Although not part of the Jin Yan Tasting Menu, no meal at YAO would be complete without sampling their dumplings. The Xiao Long Bao, or soup dumplings, are a true masterpiece, with their delicate wrappers encasing a rich, flavorful broth that bursts forth with each bite.
YAO’s beverage program is equally impressive. It features a thoughtfully curated selection of wines and cocktails designed to complement the flavors of the cuisine. The knowledgeable staff are always on hand to offer expert recommendations, ensuring a harmonious pairing experience.
YAO Restaurant is a gem in New York’s dining scene, offering a unique and unforgettable culinary journey. With its exceptional ambiance, impeccable service, and innovative cuisine, it’s a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a remarkable dining experience. YAO is sure to leave lasting impression.
For more information on YAO Restaurant, visit yaonyc.com