JEM MACY

A Love For The Art Of Winemaking

By Patricia Canole

In the heart of Tuscany, a region renowned for its picturesque landscapes and centuries-old winemaking traditions, an American woman named Jem Macy is making waves. With her innovative approach and unyielding passion, Macy is redefining what it means to produce wine in one of the world’s most revered vinicultural regions. Her story is one of audacity, resilience, and a deep-seated love for the art of winemaking.

Jem Macy’s journey to becoming a winemaker in Tuscany is as unique as her wines. Raised in New England, Macy’s initial career path was far removed from vineyards and wineries. However, a serendipitous trip to Italy ignited a latent passion for wine, prompting a dramatic career change.

Macy’s fascination with wine quickly transformed into a full-blown obsession. She enrolled in viticulture and enology courses, immersing herself in the science and artistry of winemaking. Her dedication led her to Tuscany, where she decided to settle and pursue her dream of producing exceptional wines.

EMBRACING GOOD CAUSES
With its rolling hills and sun-drenched vineyards, Tuscany is steeped in winemaking traditions that date back to the Etruscans. This region is home to some of the world’s most celebrated wines, such as Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Entering this hallowed ground as an outsider and an American woman was no small feat. Yet, Macy was undeterred.

She carved out a niche with the longstanding family-owned wineries. To do this, she focused on innovation while respecting the essence of Tuscan winemaking. Macy introduced sustainable practices and modern technologies to her vineyards, which initially raised eyebrows among local vintners but soon garnered respect as the quality of her wines became evident. The time and energy certainly paid off.

Sustainability is at the core of Macy’s winemaking philosophy. As a woman in a male-dominated industry, Jem Macy is also a vocal advocate for gender equality in winemaking. She actively mentors young women who aspire to enter the field, giving them the knowledge and confidence to pursue their dreams. Macy’s winery has become a beacon for female winemakers, fostering a supportive community that celebrates diversity and inclusion.

WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS
As Macy continues to push the boundaries of what’s possible in winemaking, she remains dedicated to her core values of quality, sustainability and inclusivity. Her story reminds us that innovation and tradition can coexist harmoniously, creating extraordinary wines that reflect the best of both worlds. In the ever-evolving landscape of Tuscany’s winemaking, Jem Macy stands out as a visionary, shaping the future while honoring the past.

We met with Jem Macy recently to find out a little bit more about this fascinating woman.  

Tell us more about where you grew up and how it influenced your independent spirit.
I grew up in Groton, Massachusetts, a New England apple-farming town northwest of Boston where I founded my first business at age 11, a summer camp for local preschoolers. Some years later, I enrolled in college, where I studied Art History and earned an MBA in France. I have always been fascinated by Europe. My mom says that when I left in 1994 for INSEAD (Institut Européen d’Administration des Affaires), she knew I was moving to Europe for good! In 2000, after an INSEAD MBA and five years living in Germany, I moved to Tuscany and founded Castello Poggiarello, a boutique organic winery.

What brought you into the wine business?
While managing the estate’s winemaking and sales, I worked as the Italian portfolio manager for North Berkeley, a U.S. wine importer. I tasted thousands of samples a year, worked in top cellars throughout Italy and France, and traveled regularly to the U.S. to promote wine. Then I fell in love with Siena. The rest is history!

How did you learn the winemaking business?
By hanging around cellars in Burgundy and talking incessantly to winemakers, tasting thousands of wines a year for many years, and primarily by what I like to call “test and learn.”

Tell us more about Fanciulle Vini
We began making wine in the fall of 2019. My sister, Caitlin, helped me establish the winery, and we both have two daughters, so the name Fanciulle—girls in Italian—was chosen. We work with old-vine Sangiovese vineyards, including some planted in 1946. 

How do you see Fanciulle Vini standing out from other Tuscan wineries?
In every aspect of winemaking, we do things differently than what’s typically done in Tuscany. For example, no machinery is used in the vineyards (to avoid compacting the soil). There would be no point being organic if I drove a few tons of metal over the worms and bugs twenty times a year, crushing that soft, airy soil I work so hard to nourish.  

In the cellar, we work with more precision than many wineries in terms of fermentation temperatures and timing and our approach to aging the wines, which is what lets us preserve all those delicate flavors and aromas.  

I am aiming to make lacy, ethereal wines—wines that ask us to re-calibrate our palates to fully take them in—they’re that subtle and fleeting.  

For more about Jem Macy, visit her blog, TheTruthAboutTuscany.com;
for more information on Fanciulle Vini, visit FanciulleVini.com