CANYON CAPERS

Bryce Canyon National Park, Bryce Canyon Country, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument—visions of this slice of geological heaven in Southern Utah are of towering red mountains, deep canyons, mysterious hoodoos, and magnificent rock arches; as I discovered on my recent trip out West, it is this and a whole lot more.

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
Once I had picked up my baggage at the airport, I headed outside the great-looking arrivals hall to meet the rest of the tour group and the shuttle for the four-and-a-half-hour drive. Through increasingly beautiful scenery, our driver and tour guide, Michelle, was a veritable fount of knowledge regarding geology, history, customs, legends and other interesting stories. In no time at all, we glanced left from Highway 12 to our first port of call, the magnificent Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, where we were met and very warmly welcomed by owner Hal and his management team. 

Touted as The Future of Luxury Glamping, Clear Sky Resorts Utah consists of around 60 glass fronted domes, in various sizes and configurations, sleeping up to 4, including my favorite, Supernova, complete with a disco floor, disco ball and disco décor!

All dome bathrooms feature something I had never seen before: Bluetooth-enabled mirrors that display the temperature but also connect to mobile devices. This allows the occupant to play their choice of music from their own playlists while relaxing under the soothing water of the incredible rainfall shower! Initially, it is a little disconcerting to be in accommodations that anyone can see into. Even so, the configuration of the domes, scattered throughout the desert valley floor, is such that no dome looks directly into another. The motorized drapes afford extra privacy for those who want it.

With the top drapes open on a clear night and the dome in complete darkness, one falls asleep in complete luxury while gazing at the stars in the night sky, devoid of the light pollution that spoils the view in towns and cities.

On our first night at Clear Sky Resorts, we met at one of the largest glass dome restaurants in the world, Sky Nova Café Bar & Grill. This restaurant features a stunning 28-foot floor-to-ceiling panoramic glass wall overlooking the resort’s spectacular scenery.

We were very privileged to be the first guests at the restaurant for the inaugural dinner. The food was incredible, befitting the five-star luxury of this incredible destination. The chicken that I had for my entrée was out of this world. It was washed down with a wonderful mocktail and ice-cold water, served in beautifully decorated Clear Sky Resorts glasses. Then, there was a wickedly decadent ganache dessert, bigger than I had ever seen! 

The restaurant/bar is celestial themed, with a futuristic twist. Even the silverware echoes that, changing hues as the knives, forks, and spoons are turned and seen at different angles in different lights—most definitely a first for me!  

At the end of a long day, we retired to our respective domes and a restful sleep on a European-style bed with a plush five-star mattress and luxurious linens. I was looking forward to hiking in Bryce Canyon the following day. 

BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK
It was day two and we woke to heavy rain, as August is monsoon season. Not to be discouraged, our local guide, April, loaded us into our transport and we set off for the National Park, 15 miles from Clear Sky Resorts. Alas, as we entered the park and ascended in altitude up towards 8,800 feet above sea level, the rain got heavier and fog enveloped every viewing spot, making for some interesting views over Natural Arches and Agua Canyon. April kept us entertained with a lot of historical facts and some delightful stories about the legendary Butch Cassidy, who grew up in the area.

Weather reports suggested that there would be a window of clear weather later in the afternoon, so it was decided to head out of the park, have lunch in the nearby village of Tropic, and then return to hike a shorter trail.

We went to I.D.K. Barbecue, and I had some incredible brisket with potato salad—simple, wholesome Southern food—eaten at picnic tables in the cute venue. Others had chicken, pulled pork, salads, and lashings of sauces, both BBQ and spicy, which everyone wolfed down with delight!

Eventually, the weather cleared, the sun was out, and it was time to head back to Bryce to hike the Queens Garden trail. We descended along the trail from Sunrise Point, marveling at the red sandstone landscape, peaks, troughs, and many hoodoos. We reached the bottom of the trail and looked back up to see the Queen Victoria Hoodoo—a red sandstone monolith that looks remarkably like the queen.

The hike back up to Sunrise Point to complete the 1.8-mile round trip is moderately challenging, with an elevation gain of some 450 feet up to 8,100 feet above sea level. Water is essential, especially at high altitude, and regular stops on some of the steeper inclines can be very beneficial. The majesty and sheer beauty of the Bryce Canyon Amphitheatre far outweighed any weariness imparted by this hike! 

EBENEZER BRYCE
Bryce Canyon was named for Scottish missionary and Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce and there is much in the area that celebrates his time there. One of those places is Ebenezer’s Barn and Grill in Bryce Canyon City. It is a huge place with a big stage up front and caters to many, many patrons eager to partake in a cowboy-style meal and listen to excellent country music at the dinner show.

On the night we were there, the music was supplied by Due West, playing a mix of songs written by themselves and other songwriters, providing a perfect musical backdrop to dinner, which is served camp style, with everyone collecting their pre-ordered food from the huge tables set up to one side. A great way to end the day, before heading back to Clear Sky Resorts, where we sat by the firepits for a while.

GRAND STAIRCASE EXPLORATION
Saturday morning dawned. The weather was gorgeous, and it was time to depart Clear Sky. First on the agenda after checking out was a brief trip to Tropic to meet up with Grand Staircase ATV tours, load up in the side-by-sides, and head off into the desert for a three-hour guided tour off the beaten path, so to speak, of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument with owner Justin and his wife.

The sights were breathtaking from around 9,000 feet above sea level. We learned about the various Native American influences in the area and how the canyons, peaks, and valleys were formed from an original inland sea. What blew me away was finding hundreds of fossilized oyster shells at such an altitude, a remnant of that ancient sea. Another of those experiences when I couldn’t put my camera down!  

The tour was followed by a great lunch at Pizza Place in Bryce Canyon Inn, then we headed off to our next accommodation stop, Ofland Escalante, a great resort offering a choice of accommodations, from tiny cabins to vintage Airstreams to deluxe cabins and camping. The facilities and amenities are varied and top class, including a drive-in theater, complete with vintage cars from which to watch the movie!

That evening, we headed into Escalante for dinner at 4th West Pub, the only bar on Highway 12. Great American and Mexican-style food at a great price—I had an incredible pastrami burger that went down very well after a busy day in the desert! 

THE SLOT CANYON SQUEEZE
Our last full day promised to be epic. Hiking in slot canyons with Excursions of Escalante was a brand-new experience, one that turned out not to be for the faint-hearted or those who suffer from claustrophobia.

Upon arrival, Amie met us, gave us a rundown of what to expect and then kitted us all out with the necessary backpacks, helmets, harnesses, plenty of water and packed away our lunches from Escalante Outfitters across the street.  

Owner Rick arrived and took us through a safety instruction briefing, checking that everyone was medically fit for the experience and imparting of his vast knowledge, gained over many years as a local. His resume is way too long to go into, but he is absolutely one of the very best to be with! 

Canyoneering in slot canyons certainly puts you through the mill a bit physically. Rick took us to what he said was one of the most difficult he takes groups to, the canyon walls being only 15 inches apart at times, and often no more than 2 feet, but we negotiated it all. I came away with a feeling of accomplishment at having conquered the challenge, along with a lot of scrapes and bruises as a reminder. Add to this that Rick also took us rappelling, it was an afternoon well spent! That night was spent by the firepits at Ofland Escalante, playing games, toasting smores and relaxing our aching bodies. 

The next day, the drive back to Salt Lake City airport featured even more spectacular scenery. Capitol Reef National Park was a highlight, and before the slow descent back towards the airport, it reached an elevation of 11,000 feet.  

I wish I had been able to spend more time in such an incredible destination, but I am grateful for the time I had and I left with a promise to myself to return. 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Getting There: Traveling from New York, there are three main airports that serve the area, Salt Lake City International, Harry Reid International Las Vegas and Cedar City Airport (with a transfer at SLC). I chose to fly into Salt Lake City, being the closest of the three airports to JFK, with a flight time of just over five hours.

For More Information:
Clear Sky Resorts:
brycecanyon.clearskyresorts.com
Ofland Escalante:
ofland.com
Southwest Adventure Tours:
southwestadventuretours.com
Canyon Fever Guides: canyonfeverguides.com
Grand Staircase ATV Tours: grandstaircaseatv.com
Excursions of Escalante: excursionsofescalante.com
I.D.K. Barbecue: idkbarbecue.com
Ebenezer’s Bar and Grill: Ebenezersbarnandgrill.com
The Pizza Place Bryce Canyon: brycecanyonpizza.com
4th West Pub: 4wpub.com