SALZBURG HOLIDAY CHARM

No matter what the season, Salzburg is a charming city, with its massive Fortress overlooking the Salzach River and the Altstadt, the Old City, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Austrian Alps loom to the east in this place, which evokes The Sound of Music to fans of that classic film, for much of it was shot on location here.

Salzburg, which sits just inside Austria’s northeastern border with Germany, is also the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart in 1756 and the home of the famed Salzburg Festival, the music-filled event, of course, includes Mozart concerts and more and happens for five weeks every summer from July to August.

And now, as the winter season arrives, Salzburg pulls out all the stops during Advent, the time that Christians celebrate the coming birthday of Jesus Christ. It begins in late November and continues to early January, with various parades, musical events, and this picturesque city’s famed Christmas markets.

SPECIAL SETTINGS
The settings for Salzburg’s huge Christmas markets are spectacular, especially if there’s some snow on the ground, which turns this beautiful place into a dreamland. Many markets are called “Advent Markets” instead of “Christmas markets” because they span the Advent season, the four Sundays and the weeks in between that lead up to Christmas Day.  

Part of what makes the Salzburg markets so unique is that they are set on the grounds of iconic spots around the city, like the Christkindlmarket on Domplatz and Residenzplatz (also known as the Salzburg Christmas Market). That’s one of the world’s oldest and most beautiful Christmas markets, always set right in Salzburg Cathedral Square and dating back to the 15th century.  

Traditional huts overflow with gift-giving and seasonal tasting possibilities, over 90 different choirs perform every day at 5 pm, and “tower-blowing” musicians perform carols from the three towers surrounding the Residenzplatz every Thursday and Saturday, all in the heart of Old Town, the UNESCO World Heritage Site that makes Salzburg a unique place to explore.

INCREDIBLE VIEWS
Meanwhile, high above the Old Town at Festung Hohensalzburg (the Castle Fortress), the Advent Market brings the holiday season to another iconic spot in the city. With the incredible views that make this Fortress built in the 11th century a popular spot all year round. This Christmas market, that’s only open on weekends, is reached by taking the funicular up the side of the massive Festungsberg mountain that overlooks the city.

For a unique experience, head south of the city center to Schloss Hellbrunn, the famous palace renowned for its tricky fountains. Although the market there is only twenty years old, it is one of the city’s most popular because of its lovely setting, with stalls specializing in handcrafted items.  

Other Christmas markets around the city are found in Mirabellplatz, Sternarkaden, and Salzachsee. Visitors can visit a different one each day to taste the mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, and gingerbread cookies that each one is sure to offer. 

KRAMPUS!
Austrians add a holiday tradition specific to the region with the arrival of Krampus, a horned, half-goat/half-demon creature whose origins go back in Alpine folklore to pagan times. He’s been the scary part of the Advent season since Christianity began: the monster who comes to punish children who don’t behave. He was always told to arrive the night of December 5 along with St. Nicholas (the original Santa Claus) to spank those wayward kids with a switch!

These days, Krampus is an integral part of Salzburg’s celebrations leading to Christmas, always appearing for his “Krampus Run” on Krampusnacht at the Salzburg Christmas Market. That’s where you’ll find hordes of revelers dressed up as the monster (or as St. Nick) parading in the streets in a slightly wacky celebration filled with funny rituals.  

The next day at the market, Krampus and St. Nick return for Kinderkrampus (children’s Krampus) with a big bag of toys to gift to all the kids who’ve been good. It’s a traditional celebration that delights the children and adults. 

WINING, DINING & MOZART
No visit to Salzburg would be complete without taking in at least one Mozart concert, so plan to enjoy the numerous Mozart and Advent concerts held inside the Fortress at holiday time. Those events can also include a candlelight dinner at the Panorama Restaurant, which offers gorgeous views of the city below.

Or dine on the edge of the Old City at the Sternbräu, a chic place today that was once one of Mozart’s favorite dining spots. These days, Chef Michael Pratter serves up his unique Austrian melding of traditional and modern cuisine, paired with classic regional wines like Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt or (of course) their very own beer, Sternbier.  

To round out a holiday visit to this beautiful place, take in the house where Mozart was born and the residence where he and his sister lived as child prodigies (her story is fascinating, too) as both are museums now; and don’t miss St. Peter’s Cemetery, the oldest in Austria and the spot where the von Trapp family hides from the Nazis in The Sound of Music. We also predict that by the time you depart, Salzburg will likely be high on your list.  

For more information about Salzburg (including Advent/ Christmas markets),
visit salzburg.info/en/salzburg