The Skye’s The Limit

“Brace yourselves,” warned our driver and guide, Al McHarg, “We’ll be driving on some serious potholes, probably with some minor road attached to them.”

McHarg, clad in typically Scottish, tartan trousers, his long, brownish-auburn locks flowing, à la William Wallace (aka Braveheart), was every bit the picture-perfect Scotsman and ideal shaman to explore the glorious Isle of Skye. This dramatic, awe-inspiring isle is a land awash with mystery and magic, fairy pools and castles, and history and drama.

I had signed on to a three-day journey with Rabbie’s, the 30-year-old Scottish touring company named for—who else?—Robert Burns, affectionately known as Rabbie Burns, Scotland’s legendary celebrity poet. The company specializes in small-group trips, usually limited to 16, the perfect number for the company’s mini-vans (it’s worth noting that two dozen new vans are on the way, providing roomier leg space); the company offers about 150-plus different journeys (from one-day outings to 16-day sojourns), with more than half of the voyages in Scotland, and the rest in England, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Wales, and with new offerings on the continent.

Rabbie’s began in 1993, as a one-man operation, and has mushroomed into a major touring company, offering diverse packages—some are all-inclusive, others are merely tours with drivers and guides (you do all the selection/booking of your hotels and meals). Our tour—because Skye doesn’t exactly have a plethora of Ibis, Crowne Plaza, or Hyatt hotels—was totally booked by Rabbie’s and it was perfect for a “lazy” traveler. Organized by Rabbie’s, start to finish, our tour had a few open options for meals while traversing to and from the island.

All aboard in Edinburgh! We traveled across the belt-width of Scotland, on a southern route, heading toawrd the glorious Highlands, slowly meandering westward to Skye, and passing important landmarks, like the architecturally interesting Stirling Castle and Doune Castle, which had a role as a not-so-insignificant extra in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, Outlander, and Game of Thrones.

Onward to Glencoe, one of Scotland’s most recognized natural landmarks. Renowned for wild, untamed, and rugged slopes and stunning scenery, this starkly breathtaking area has been featured in numerous films (most conspicuously, in 2012’s Skyfall, in which Bond is seen driving on the A82, flooring his Aston Martin DB5’s gas pedal). The area is likewise steeped in history; notably, it was the site of a horrific massacre in 1692 when several dozen, local MacDonald clansmen were slaughtered by forces acting on behalf of King Willaim III, and thus, the area is often referred to as the “Weeping Glen.”

Keep your camera phone at the ready, as you pass Kodak-worthy towns and countryside: I took so many pictures of spectacular scenery—Callander (the unofficial gateway to the Highlands), Lochry Bridge of Orchy, Dalmally, and Ballachullish) before we even got to Glencoe! In the afternoon, we reached the celebrated Eilean Donan Castle, a mid-13th-century, stunning structure—and had time to explore there. It’s a destination stop, as this is one of Scotland’s most glorious castles, situated on an island, surrounded by three sea lochs, imposing vistas, and awash in remarkable history.

As we crossed the bridge to Skye, Al advised us to turn back our watches about nine hundred years. The dramatic coastline stays in view for a while, as we head to Portree, the island’s capital, but not before we’ve stopped at a few iconic lookout points, to soak up scenery and take photos.

Our resting place for the next two nights is the welcoming, warm, and cozy, ten-room Hame Hotel in Dunvegan. Owned and operated by husband-and-wife partners John Jones (Welsh chef) and Ada Konkolska (Polish innkeeper, who manages the “front of the house”), and their frisky, trick-savvy Aussie pup, who performed for us, showing off Ada’s adept training skills. Meals were family-style and absolutely gourmet-level, delicious and sophisticated. The 24-hour bar in the great room was untended—on the honor system. Just jot down on the handy pad what you drank!

The next day, with Al as our trusted trail blazer, we explored more of the dreamscape that is synonymous with Skye: The Old Man of Storr, a majestic, rocky pinnacle—a geologic wonder, really—is a basal-rock volcanic plug, the result of a few billion years of geologic alchemy. We started our walk up the pathway in pelting rain which turned to hail, and then, seemingly with the flourish of a magician’s wand, we ended our outdoor venture in halting sunshine that vacillated between glowing bursts and veiled, lavender-gray. As they say in Scotland, if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. And remember, today’s rain is tomorrow’s whisky.

More astonishing, spectacular scenery—Kilt Rock and the Quiraing mountain pass—awaited later that afternoon. Scotland is arguably the dictionary definition of glorious, spectacular, theatrical wilderness.

Our last day we made our way off Skye, by a different route of potholes and roadway and then onto the mainland, following a northern, different route, but still surrounded by gobsmackingly and heartbreakingly imposing scenery, with staccato notes of scenic splendor at Cuillin Hills and Sligachan Bridge, as well as in the charming village of Fort Augustus, nestled along the banks of Loch Ness. A favorite rest and shopping spot for just about all of the region’s pilgrims is Taste Perth in Bankfoot, where we had time to shop, eat, and pet a mini herd of Highland Cows (referred to by natives as Heeland Coos).

Another must, anywhere in Scotland, is a visit to a distillery, as Scotch whisky (note the spelling here is without the e before the y), was more or less invented in this country. On day two, we just had to visit the oldest distillery on Skye, the renowned Talisker. The tasting and the “lesson” were educational and delicious.

We rolled back into Edinburgh in time for a late dinner, exhausted, but sated and overwhelmed. It is worth noting that Rabbie’s has garnered countless UK travel awards for excellence and value, including British Travel Awards, Silver Thistle Awards, and Silver Green Apple Awards. There is no doubt that a small tour group is an excellent method of getting from here to there, wherever here and there are…hassle-free, with someone else doing all the heavy lifting. I am reminded of a very old (‘50s, to be exact), slogan from Greyhound: Go Greyhound and leave the driving to us. I would happily leave the driving—and the planning, the navigating, and the reservation-making—to Rabbie’s. I just had to show up. And I’d like to do it all over again. Other isles—Arran, Mull, and Iona are calling.

For additional information: rabbies.com/en-us

Photos Courtesy of Rabbie’s